There is something spiritual and magical about Nigeria, her people, wildlife and landscapes. Mysterious shrines found in groves, caves or on hills conjure up feelings of otherworldliness, and the land is so close to indigenous people’s everyday lives and imaginations that caves are given names and thunder, water and mountains are still worshipped.
For the backpacker willing to stray off the beaten track, there’s much to explore in this mystical country – especially in the picturesque but little-known Idanre Hills, tucked away in Ondo state and just visible from the upper elevation of the nearby capital city of Akure.
Often described as one of the most awesome landscapes in the country, the extraordinary-looking isleberg hills surround the town of Idanre and dominate the life of the population. High up in one of the hills, you’ll find a fascinating abandoned ancient village.
Currently being considered for UNESCO World Heritage status, Oke Idanre is the original home of the Idanre people. The village was founded by early people crossing the Yoruba lands, and was fully populated and functioning right up until the 1920s, when its inhabitants were encouraged to come and settle in the valley below.
Records show that early Christians, converted by European colonists, came into conflict with people practising the traditional polytheistic religion at this time. So while the Christians chose to settle in an area eventually named Alade, those practicing ancestor worship created a new village called Odode closer to their old home.
Ancient footsteps
Though no longer inhabited, Oke Idanre’s red adobe-type structures and iron roofs are maintained by the families who still own the properties. While the families may now live in the valley below, they return for one week a year during the festival of Orosun in May to stay in their former homes and commune with their ancestors.
In the village you can see the Owa’s palace, reputed to have been built a millennium ago, and even a footprint from one of the ancient rulers in the village. Carved into rock, the footprint of Agboogun is said to fit the shape of every person’s foot – as long as they don’t practice witchcraft!
Settled on top of the flat hilltop you’ll also find the Ark of Noah, an ancient wooden structure worked into the form of a ship. The structure is regarded by the Idanre as the biblical Noah’s Ark, and they will readily swear on the god of iron (Ogun) that biblical accounts of the Ark resting on the Ararat Mountains are untrue.
A hiker’s paradise
Oke Idanre is perched on top of a peculiar hill known as an isleberg, and contains many shrines and intriguing caves where early people worshipped and lived. To reach the village you’ll need to climb a daunting 640 steps, with five welcome resting places along the way.
The iselbergs of the Idanre Hills are steep with rounded tops, and are a hiker’s dream or nightmare, depending on the level of challenge you are seeking. According to local guides, it takes between four days to a week to climb all of the hills. Ojimoba, the largest of the region’s iselbergs is even said to have spiritual powers.
If you’re really up for a physical challenge, visit the area in during the Mare mountain climbing festival and marathon. Established in 2009, it attracts as many as 7,000 international climbers.
Also found in this sprawling 900 km² area is Orosun Mountain. Standing at an impressive 3,018 metres above sea level, this imposing mountain is still worshipped by the local people today, and boasts its own festival every May.
Unique flora and flora
Once you make it to the top of the Idanre Hills you’re more than rewarded for your efforts. The flora and fauna are unique, and indigenous mammals, such as the tailless Hyrax, still populate the rocks. A species of unclassified monkey inhabits the forests around Orosun, and you’ll find many different species of bat. During the festival of Orosun, popular bat hunting expeditions take place in Owa, a particularly large cavern with guano–covered boulders. Other caves in the area worth exploring include Ojomu, Omi-Iwo and Olofin and Uwo-Akota, the cave of wasps.
You’ll find the Idanre Hills 24 km southwest of Akure, the State capital of Ondo.
By Lynn Houghton
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